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22 juin 2008

Laos : Why I (we) don't like South-East Asia.

We left Cambodia few days ago, after France's been kicked out of Euro like a piece of shit. We crossed the border and stayed first for 3 days in Don Det, 4000 Islands (Mekong River), Laos. There, we rent a push bike to hang around, take pictures of farmers, water buffalos, rice plantations, waterfalls, kids, ... A lovely place even if the people were not as smily as the Cambodian (but still kind of nice). From there, we caught a bus to Pakse (clean and nice city on the way) and another one to Tad Lo on the Bolaven Plateau.
Tad Lo is the best place I've stayed so far. Clean guesthouse (with unwelcoming staff), minority village with pigs running everywhere next door, waterfalls 50m away (I can actually see them from our room) and the river nearly touchable from the balcony, ... believe me, this is a wonderful place.
So why do I dislike S-E Asia ? Listen...
Our guesthouse's staff is sooo friendly, we decided to go to the nearer GH (guesthouse) for a drink-dinner-dessert. The manager  of Tim GH seemed to be cold but sympathic. He was also pleased to speak french. with us.We thought instead of giving more money to our actual GH's owner, we better book a tour with the Tim GH's manager. The tour is basically a walk through the forest with 2 waterfalls and 4 villages, and we paid him to provide us a guide.
Next morning, 8am, we're ready to go. Tim GH's manager introduced us to our guide who didn't say hello to us what we found a bit rude. We were wondering if he was another dick head or as many Lao people, shy, cold at first sight, unable to speak english but finally kind. And that was it. With few words and a wonderful smile, our guide showed us around, the local plants (tabacco, rice, coffee, ...). We really enjoyed that walk because of him, his smile and kindness. We appreciated his company. At the end, he was tired and said so. And I can understand why... You should have seen this little man, in his mid-fifties, clearly under-fed, and we found out later, suffering of asthma. 12km in 4h isn't the best for a little weak man !!! Specially with the heat.
When we finally went back to Tim GH, we paid the manager for the tour, sat at a table, ordered 2 drinks and offered one to our guide which he refused. Then he took a seat with the Tim GH's manager on another table in the room. I watched the scene and was shocked by what was happening. The owner of the GH, probably full of US dollars, who stayed 4h having a seat front of his computer and only did a printring saying that he can provide a guide, and waited for us to get back, took 60000 kips for him and paid only 30000 kips the guide. The guide looked immediatly a bit more tired and really sad. But he did not say a word and left after have thanked us again. I ran after him and gave him 50000 kips, which he desserves much more than the other asshole I think. He smiled at us and said happily "very good tip, thank you !". We had gave him... 4 euros. Think about it.
It's because of some guy like Tim GH's manager, and we met a lot of them, that we aren't enjoyed ourselves in South East Asia. Too many are thristy of money, and it doesn't matter if they have to fuck up their own neighboors. And they, for most  of them, even forget to be nice at tourists (a part of them assholes themselves, I know). This is a bit sad. And that's all what 'am saying... 

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